It is evident that global cooling, over  many centuries, was the root cause of the formation of the shingle/sand bar across the Otter Estuary.  The reverse could happen as a result of future global warming that is predicted. 

The silting of the Otter River affected the upper reaches early and by the Saxon and Norman periods, havens already mentioned up river were completely unusable for boats of all kinds.  Northmostown, Dotton, Colaton Raleigh and Grimes Ford had probably all suffered this fate by the 12th century.  

Otterton and East Budleigh Havens were still open, but the former had shrunk, enabling the mill to be moved to its present day site by the Norman Period.  East Budleigh Haven was probably affected up to its eventual silting up by the mid 1400’s. 

As cargo tonnage increased and trading vessels got larger during the 14th and 15th centuries, port facilities were probably enlarged lower downstream at Kersbrooke Haven.  Finally after the shingle bar had begun to develop and the entrance to the estuary had decreased, an anchorage developed at Salterton (now the Limekiln car park).  The Ottermouth Port during the prosperous times could have been at Kersbrooke Haven, Bankly Wharf and Salterne.  Otterton Haven flourished as a fishing berth.   

Bankly Wharf/Dock is named after the family of Bankley (but is commonly spelled without the Bankly).  A number of members are named in Sidbury and Littleham and particularly in Otterton in the 16th and 17th centuries.  The dock is believed to have been formed after the East Budleigh Haven had silted up and the family must have been in East Budleigh at that time, probably holding Pulhayes on the high ground above. 

It is evident from the Minister’s Accounts (1408-1514) the number of trading vessels coming into Ottermouth was declining.  The last entry in the accounts for imported cargoes attracting shore dues was in 1514, although other vessels must have continued to use the docking facilities.  It is during the 16th century that evidence in maps and documents of the build up of the bar is found. 

John Leland visited Devon in 1542 and his appraisal of the County was probably used by the Government.  Henry VIII had ordered a string of fortresses to be built along the South Coast in preparation against a possible French Attack.  Both Pendennis and St. Mawes forts were built in 1545. Trevelyan writes  - 

“Some indeed of the monk’s money he spent on fortifying the harbours of the Kingdom and the arsenals of the Royal Navy”

The Leland Intinerary relating to the Estuary with a transcription reads:- 

“Otery goeth from St.Marie to Newton Bridge about a mile off: thence to Otermouth and the very sea V miles”  

(The River Otter flows from Ottery St. Mary to Newton Poppleford Bridge.  The Ottermouth is a mile further on and the sea five miles from Ottery St Mary).  This is confusing as Ottery St. Mary is nine miles from the sea and four miles from Newton Poppleford. 

“Oterton, a pretty fisher town, standeth on the east side of the haven, about a mile from Otermouth and on the west side of the haven is Budelegh right almost again Oterton but it is somewhat more from the shore than Oterton. Less than a hundredth years since ships used this haven, but it is now clean barred. Some call this haven, Budeley Haven of Budeley Town”  

(Otterton is a fishing town and stands on the east side of the Estuary, about a mile from Ottermouth and on the west side of the Estuary is East Budleigh nearly opposite Otterton, but not so close to the Estuary shore as Otterton.  It is less than 100 years ago since ships used this harbour but it is now silted up. Some call this (East) Budleigh Haven of (East) Budleigh Town). 

“The mouth of Oterey Haven lyeth south west. There is a fisher village lower than Oterton, even at the very east south east point of Otermouth. This village is called Salterne and hath been in times past a thing of some estimation: and of this village the haven of Otermouth was called Salterne Haven, or peradventure of a creek out of the main haven into it” 

(This indicates that the stream through (Budleigh) Salterton ran into a haven which had facilities for landing cargoes but had declined since the bar had reduced access.  The east-south-east point of Ottermouth appears inaccurate, suggesting Salterne is on the east bank!) 

Leland’s Itinerary indicates that the shingle bar by the 1540’s was still insignificant and high tides were still sufficient to enable Otterton to be a fishing town.  It has been a misconception in all accounts I have seen  that the Estuary itself had been “clean barred”.  Until the mid-19th century Budleigh Town is East Budleigh and Salterton is Budleigh Salterton.  It was East Budleigh that had silted up.  Bankly Dock, as mentioned above, was probably built to replace the lost facilities there.  

Therefore it would appear that the Estuary entrance from the sea was still wide open in the 1540’s, although some silting must have taken place on either side leading to the eventual narrowing of the river at its entry into the sea. 

There are three maps of the period which may have been drawn up in conjunction with the Leland Itinerary.  On the first map (Cott. Aug.18 D111) in the British Library the entrance is shown in this manner.  The caption for this map in “The Evolution of a Fishing Village” (Fox) dates the map “of around 1540” and is primarily of the Exe Estuary with Teignmouth and the Otter in support. There are two inlets (havens) marked in the west bank of the Otter river which must show Kersbrooke and Salterne Havens.  A settlement is also shown on the west bank named “Otterford”, probably Salterne. 

The second map (Royal MS 18 D111) also in the British Library is in Lord Burghley’s collection.  It is a pictorial map of South East Devon and Dorset coast (c.1540) with later alterations and additions believed to have been made in 1579.  This has the sand/shingle bar stretching across the Estuary, with two jetties at the river’s entrance into the sea.  

The New Maritime History explains “a plan among the papers of Lord Burghley shows an Elizabethan scheme for a massive stone-walled channel protruding from the river mouth providing access for ships to a haven large enough to dwarf that of the Exe.  Lack of the necessary engineering skills or of capital resources no doubt put paid to any progress”.  Vessels are illustrated inside the bar and in the haven.  They appear to be single or two masted, probably cogs or small caravels.  It is possible that vessels of this size were still able to enter the Estuary, or was it intended that, after alterations, these vessels would be able to enter. 

The map illustrates the Estuary north to beyond Otterton and East Budleigh.  A large island is in its centre.  Two bridges are drawn across the northern end linking the two villages.  This must indicate that Otterton Harbour had become unusable probably by the 1550’s.  Had the first Otterton bridge been built at this time? It is marked on Saxton’s map of 1579.  The first bridge is illustrated on a print by Henry Hasler dated 1825.  It was a narrow postbridge with typical passing places for pedestrians and used by pack horses, carts, cattle and horseriders.  It appears from the print that it was probably about the same length (approximately 35 metres) as the present bridge, which was built in 1827 to replace the older one. 

In the 19th century, Peter Orlando Hutchinson, the Sidmouth historian, visited the British Museum in 1856 and copied a further map dated 1588. He writes in his diary it ”exhibits a plan for fortifying the coast of Devonshire and Cornwall at the time of Queen Elizabeth apprehending attacks from foreign enemies”.  It clearly shows massive defensive walls around the Sid Estuary, still a thriving port at this time, also walls around Exmouth and Straight Point.  “Otterton Point” is named and the River Otter marked but neither defensive walls nor a shingle bar are illustrated.  The Otter appears to be completely silted up to its mouth and presumably of no importance to defence (this is similar to the Saxton and Speed maps). 

By 1580 the threat of a Spanish invasion became apparent and the maps were drawn with defence of the south coast in mind.  When that invasion threat came from the Spanish Netherlands, schemes to fortify the South West harbours were probably abandoned, including the Otter Estuary.

Earlier in 1553, Richard Duke, Lord of the local manors, was fund-raising towards “the cost of the making of a haven at Ottermouth”.  Bells were contributed from local parish churches and sold on for funds.  Sidmouth’s bell raised £10 by sale to “Mr. Rawleigh” of Hayes Barton.  Otterton and East Budleigh bells were donated.  A silver cross from the latter raised £45 - £25 went towards the haven and £20 for a slinger (cannon).  This is a positive indication that the silting at the estuary mouth was causing difficulties in getting trading vessels into Ottermouth. 

Archival research has not revealed what happened to the funds raised. Did dredging and widening of the river take place?  It has been suggested that a violent storm in 1524 accelerated the formation of the bar.  By 1565, Port Books no longer list Ottermouth Port.  Trading on the scale of the 14th and 15th centuries had ceased. 

In the 17th and 18th centuries, there are occasional items in the local Churchwardens Accounts of boats docking at Bankly.  For example, in  1664 - two boats laden with stones were at “Havenmouth” for which the East Budleigh Church paid £2 12/-.  They then paid £1 16/8d for carriage from Bankly to the Churchyard.  In 1778 Mr. Bartlett was paid for using his boat to bring stones (2/-) and for “drawing” them from Bankly (5/-).  

The limekilns at Budleigh Salterton are believed to date back at least to a Lease of 1762 (DRO 96M).  From that time until the Embankment was built on the Runnie (1810-15) coal and lime boats could enter the Salmon Pool and discharge their cargoes at the kilns.  From 1810 these cargoes were dropped offshore and carted to the kilns at low tide. 

Compiled and researched © Gerald Millington, 2010 

SOURCES::- 

The New Maritime History of Devon  Vols.1 & 2  (Conway Maritime 1992)

The Book of Budleigh Salterton by D.Richard Cann (Halsgrove 2005)

All About Otterton by Gerald Millington and Robert Jones (Keverel Books 2000)

Local Customs Accounts of the Port of Exeter;1266 to 1321    Maryanne Kowaleski

East Devon (The Travellers Tales)  Edited by Todd Gray  (2000)

Clinton Devon Estates Archives (Ministers Accounts 1408/1514 National Archives – copy)

Travels in Victorian Devon, The illustrated Journals & Sketch Books of Peter Orlando Hutchinson (1856) by Jeremy Butler   (Devon Books)

The Evolution of a Fishing Village 1086/1550  by Harold Fox (Leopards Head Press  2001)

Devon Records Office : National Archives; British Museum Library

English Social History by G.M.Trevelyan  Longman Green 1942

FORMATION OF SILT/SHINGLE BAR -   A TIME SCALE 

From 7,000BC temperatures rose and sea levels rose over 30 metres, drowning river valleys. 

From 1,000BC there was a shift to colder, wetter conditions.  River silting started to take place from Roman times. 

Silting of many havens used by vessels in the Otter Valley was taking place from Roman and Saxons times (say 4th  to 11th centuries) – Harpford and beyond, Northmostown, Dotton, Grimes Ford, Colaton Raleigh. 

Pre 1086 - Otterton Harbour silting and mill moved to present location. 

By 1400 - larger seagoing vessels over 50 tons could not use Ottermouth Port due to gradual silting. 

By 1450’s - East Budleigh harbour silted up.  Bankly and Salterne (Kersbrook) being used. 

1514 - last known year that Ottermouth used as a Port by trading vessels owing to development of bar across Estuary entrance. 

1524 - violent storm may have accelerated bar’s formation. 

1542 - Leland indicates build up of bar reducing access to Ottermouth Harbour. 

1553 - Richard Duke fund-raising towards”cost of the making of a haven at Ottermouth” indicates further silting. 

1565 - Exeter Port Books no longer list Ottermouth as a port. 

1580 - Access only for fishing boats, although plans (later abandoned) to widen entrance into Estuary 

OT-G-00015