Sketch Limekiln 1829 

Introduction 

During the 18th. and 19th. centuries there were at least five limekilns in the Lower Otter Valley and one at Ladram Bay.  “Farmers were anxious to improve their land, and an extra large acreage was under corn owing to the wars with France and the high prices which were ruling.  The lime was spread to sweeten soil which was acid from an underlying absence of chalk and limestone; which meant that the raw material for feeding into kilns had to be fetched from a long distance.”   

The kilns were usually close to the sea or rivers that could take the vessels delivering limestone, coal or culm.   These vessels – stoneboats – might be 70 to 100 tons with a six-foot draught.  The limestone was broken up and with the culm laid in alternate layers on top of brushwood, then lit from kindling holes (archways) in the side of the kiln.  Once alight the kilns filled the air with rolling grey volumes of unpleasant smoke. (Descriptions from “Limekilns” Shell Country Alphabet – Grigson 1965). 

With the tannery at East Budleigh and various local brickworks, if all were operating together the noxious smoke, with a south-west wind, would have billowed up and down the Otter Valley.  Not a pleasant place to live. 

Evidence of earlier lime kilns 

It is not known exactly when the first Salterton limekiln was erected.  However in an issue of the Exmouth Journal of January 1935, Mr. G.E.L. Carter, a local amateur archaeologist, wrote that during the construction of a new service road just south of the Gasworks at Granary (junction of Granary and Lower Stoneborough Lanes). 

“the lower courses of part of a curving wall were found on the slopes of the higher ground overlooking the marshes.  The wall as exposed was about 2 feet thick and was composed of sandstone, large pebbles and brick, all duly bound by mortar. Within the line of the wall was a mass of debris with much lime. Bricks taken from the wall were found to measure on an average 9.2 inches by 2.5 ins. approx.”  

He contends that the bricks were made at Shortwood, “obviously of the period before the standardizing of bricks in 1625”.  He continues “in the wall were pieces of unburnt limestone and shale”.  “Though the limestone is not the white Babbacombe variety …….. but of a pale greenish-blue colour, the association with shale points to its having come from the south west probably the Torbay region”.  “The kiln discovered lay a little on the landward side of the great embankment” (built 1810/12, further alterations made 1814).  It is presumed that the older kiln was dismantled after the embankment was built as stoneboats could no longer bring stone alongside. 

The suggestion here is that this kiln was built early 17th. century.  This may be true.  Later researches show that the land on which this and subsequent kilns stood was probably on a 1000-year Chief Rent Leasehold set up in the late 16th. century by the Duke Estate.  In 1664 “11 boates lade of stones att havenmouth £2.12/-” which were then carted to East Budleigh Churchyard.  This indicates that there would be no problem shipping limestone to a kiln at that time. 

Eighteenth century activity 

The first reference seen is in the Rolle Estate Rental Book which covers the period 1670/1770.  However there is no date to this entry which reads  “John Thomas holds Limekiln in Salterton in Budleigh for 1000 years.  Rent 4d pa”.  (This entry has been deleted and George Baron’s name inserted – again no date).  John Thomas is named in the Quarter Session List of 1721 and his son John jnr. in 1741.   

The Rental Book contains fifty-three leases bought and held by the Rolle family, mostly by Sir John Rolle and his sons Lord Henry Rolle, John Rolle Walter and Denys Rolle between the dates of the Book.  They would all be 1000 year or 3000 year Chief Rent Leaseholds held of the Duke Estates and merged into the Rolle Estate on its purchase by Denys Rolle in 1786.   In the 1790 Survey all these Leases appear among the new Rolle Estates Leases.  The limekiln now appears as “No.32 George Baron: Limekiln in Salterton for 1000 years Rent 4d”. 

We can only assume that John Thomas, later George Baron, held the 1000-year Lease, sold it to John Rolle Walter, and retained the 1000-year term and 4d Rent.  

The moiety of the Salterton limekiln 

On May 7th. 1762 an Indenture grants a 99-year Lease of a “moiety of Limekiln situate on Salterton Beach to Thomas Weekes, tanner,” which states “The whole of the Limekiln doth now belong to John Rolle Walter”.  This would be the Chief Rent Leasehold of the Duke Estates.  

The next day May 8th. John Rolle Walter is granting a 10-year lease at £5 p.a, to Geo. Cockram, (of Pulhayes Farm), Richard Scott, mariner, Edward Harris, yeoman & William Farr, boatman, with John Rolle Walter “to keep the limekiln in good tenantable repair during the period of the lease, and make an agreement with John Duke (Lord of the Manor) for 1/- for each boat of limestones landed on the beach to be burnt in the kiln to be paid by Cockram, Scott, Harris & Farr”. 

These documents and the 1790 Survey indicate that the Limekiln and its houses, yards, fields were divided between Thomas or Baron and Weekes, with Cockram etc. leasing the rights to supply limestone etc.  Moving forward to a 1885 tenancy lease the old Limekiln site covered three acres which includes the kiln, coal yard and garden, plus two fields.  Thomas Weekes, tanner, was a son of Joseph Weekes who had leased the East Budleigh Tannery from 1740.   

In 1748 Thomas Weekes leased Stockers tenement at Knowle and half the limekiln at Salterton.  This suggests he was holding part of the limekiln site probably as a storage area for shipments of coal, hides and bark from the Low Countries, in conjunction with his father’s business which he later took over.   

Stockers tenement, a messuage and ninety-six acres, a Freehold had been bought by William Stocker in 1672 and sold to Lord Henry Rolle in 1735.  The various deeds and wills of the family make no mention of a limekiln.  Can it be assumed that when Weekes leased “Stockers” and the moiety of limekiln from the Rolles, they were grouped under the same rental? 

A further lease of 1793 of a Messuage and tenement at Knowle to Thomas Weekes also includes a moiety of the limekilns, the lands of Thomas Stocker, “since in the possession of Thomas Gooch and now him the said Thomas Weekes”.  Does this mean that the moiety of the limekilns were part of William Stocker’s holdings in 1672?  

Thomas Weekes is still holding Stockers tenement 1800 to 1820, though it is occupied by Edmund Cox.  This may have included his moiety of lands at the limekilns. No further mention of this moiety has been seen.  (A moiety is “usually a half-portion of an estate, but not necessarily as much”). 

Stockers Tenement became Higher Knowle Farm and the house is now divided into two cottages below the disused railway bridge over Dalditch Lane.  

The new Salterton limekiln 

It is believed that after the 1790 Survey, Geo. Baron had either given up or sold the Chief Rent Leasehold back to the Rolle Estates. No documents have been seen confirming this.  

It is evident during the period when Denys Rolle was negotiating the purchase of East Budleigh and Otterton Manors from the Duke Family (1786) that lime was being produced and supplied to farmers in twenty-seven different Parishes in S.E. Devon, including Otterton and Budleigh by the kilns of William Ford of Branscombe.  Ford also had the use of Lime Pits in Beer Parish from 1785 to 1820, which were owned by Judith Walrond, wife of Lord Rolle.  This suggests that production of lime at the Salterton Kiln was minimal and probably uneconomic.  After his father’s death in 1797, Lord Rolle, his successor, must have decided to take action to improve production. 

In 1801 Lord Rolle commissioned Jonathan Pike to build a “new limekiln at Budleigh Salterton and digging out ground first, all materials to be got & to be brought so neigh (near) the spot as posiball (sic) at the expense of Lord Rolle, 400 perch of stone & brick £35. Bricks for above 4,500, bricks for repair of old kiln 4,000. Labour taking down and walling up £3.3/-” (Mr. Daw, Rolle Estates Steward adds - bed of new kiln = 24 sq. ft.). 

In 1802 Thomas Owen, shipbuilder of Topsham was commissioned by Lord Rolle to build a stoneboat of 74 tons at a cost of £700.  In 1805 another stoneboat is being fitted out at Topsham.  The names of these boats are not known.  With two kilns and the Estate using their own boats, this would certainly be a much more economical undertaking.  

In 1805 Lord Rolle took Matthew Lee Yeates into partnership in the limestone business and in the first year it showed a profit of £444.  Yeates was a ship-owner and timber importer in partnership with William Good of Bridport, generally owning four or five vessels ranging from 63 to 83 tons at any one time, they were suitable for coastal trade.  He and Good started the Exmouth & General Bank in 1807 which failed in 1812.  Yeates partnership with Lord Rolle ended the following year which suggests the two events are connected.  The vessels owned by Yeates & Good were auctioned in 1815. 

The 1805 Account Book gives details of Disbursements to suppliers :-  

“culm, stones & various items for fitting out a new stone boat from Topsham (3rd. June) included oak to caulk & 2 blocks for the capstan total; £623.19.6½d.” 

In 1805/6 John Phillips, master of one of the boats was supplying twelve loads of limestone from Berry Head and Babbacombe.  In 1806 his boat ran aground on The Maer, Exmouth.  He left it there and a pilot was paid £1 15s 0d to move it. 

In 1806 a new vessel “Trafalgar” was built, owned by Robert Smith, mariner and Thomas Bastin, farmer, both of East Budleigh and shipped in two voyages, cargos of coal from Newport and culm from Leith, probably delivering to the limekilns. 

John Rattenbury of Beer was the master from October 4th. 1806.  In his Memoirs (see bibliography) he writes: 

“My first voyage in her was to Newport for coals, and we completed it in 7 days. We then went to Leith for a cargo of Culm, accomplishing that in 18 days I then received orders to get a standing bowsprit and steer for the islands (Channel Is.) for the purpose of smuggling.”  

He successfully smuggled five cargoes of contraband back to Devon before the “Trafalgar” was wrecked off Alderney. 

The economics of production and use, other suppliers. 

In 1806 the cost of producing lime i.e. limestone, coal, transport, labour etc. was £675 19s 11d.  Sales were £858 13s 6d i.e. about 683 tons of lime & 263 hogsheads of lime ash, to eighty-four customers.  It appears that some of the tenant farmers were supplied by the Rolle Estates (Lord Rolle) and they paid for their lime with their quarterly Rent Bill.  For example, Abraham Skinner of “Skinners & Tapes Farm” (now Stantyway, Otterton) received forty-two loads between May 31st & June 24th 1805 delivered by the Estate.  During that period 558 loads were delivered.  

All of the Rolle Estates tenants were obliged by the covenants in their leases to spread lime on all land which they brought into cereal cultivation from pasture at the rate of ten hogsheads per acre.  Some other farmers named during this period are Henry Otten - 35 loads, Samuel Pile - 42 loads both of Kersbrook, Cockeram of Pulhayes Farm - 25 loads, John Hussey of Salterton - 45 loads and 14 of ashes. 

However not all Estate tenant farmers bought lime from the Salterton Limekiln.  Otterton Barton had a limekiln on its land, which became part of South Farm when the latter was divided from the Barton in 1802.  Both farms’ leases included using the kiln and Lime Pit Field which was on South Farm’s land.  Its first lease in 1802 names the limekiln as at Great Burcombe a name not known to us.  The 1843 Tithe Map No.1435 lists it as Marsh and it has been separated from South Farm and rented to William Pile at Pulhayes Farm.  Today its remains are standing on high ground above the stream out of South Farm as it enters the Otter River.  

In early 1600’s this was a Boat Builders Yard.  Lime Pit Field of nine acres (No.1433) is nearby now under cultivation.  

The 1779 Auction Prospectus of Otterton Manor quotes, under demesnes lands - Barton Farm “There is a valuable Lime Rock on this farm, which will constantly furnish that excellent & very valuable manure for the land at small expense”.  The Exeter Flying Post has sale particulars in 1815 for Otterton Barton “with use of a lime rock & kiln adjacent”.  The Lease for the Barton of 1816 states “Liberty to have use of lime pit on that part of Barton of Otterton which is intended to be occupied by John Bastin (of South Farm) for burning the lime 5 weeks in every year between Lady Day & Midsummers Day, giving one months notice to Lord Rolle all of which sd. premises are situated in the pshs. of Otterton, East Budleigh & Bicton in the possession of John Bastin”.  The Lease of South Farm is of a similar context. 

The Bastin’s needed culm for their kiln and in 1812 they are drawing one part load of culm from Exmouth. They were charged 6/-.  This was in a shipment by lighter from Neath, South Wales.  This limekiln was still in use in 1844 when W. & R. Harding are holding it on a Rack Rent of 5/- per half year.  The Hardings may have been William, who farmed Stantyway Farm and Richard at Pinn Barton, both Otterton, burning lime for these Farms. 

Impact of the construction of the Embankments, 18th. Century. 

In 1808 Lord Rolle had plans drawn up for an embankment to be built across the Estuary and construction began in 1810.  Vessels were still able to discharge cargos at the Salmon Pool wharf up to that time.  This then ceased and all later cargos were deposited on the beach at high tides, being carted off at low tides to the kilns.  Thomas Pile was employed in 1811 for this purpose.  Later trucks on rails were used, winched up by capstan turned by a horse walking round a circular iron plate. 

There was considerable ill-feeling during much of the 19th. century over the construction of the embankment and the loss of the anchorage in the Salmon Pool.  In 1851 a report was drawn up by the Admiralty following a public meeting held by Captain Washington R.N. on their behalf.  Various pilots, fishermen, vessel captains etc. gave evidence.  The Report states: 

“Prior to 1810 the Estuary was entirely covered with water at Spring Tides, Boats carrying stone and drawing 4 & 5 feet went up to Bankly Dock & Clammer Bridge.  Vessels drawing 10ft. could go into the Estuary at High Water and a vessel of 8ft. draft could lie afloat in the Salmon Pool at Low Water”  

Others stated that the “Three Brothers” a coaster of 35 tons with a 7ft. draft and yachts could go up to the Limekiln.  Coal could be discharged in the upper and lower pool.  The smuggler, John Rattenbury brought a 40-tons vessel into the pool carrying contraband which was landed there.  A vessel carrying stone landed its cargo at Bankly in 1778.  In 1796 trawlers sailed in and out of the pool.  The tide rose by fourteen feet and vessels sailed one and a half miles up the estuary with their cargos.  The river was tidal up to Otterton Mill in 1810.   

(An Admiralty chart drawn up by Capt Washington in 1850 also shows the site of another Lime Kiln at Granary Dock)

Part of 1850 Admiralty Chart – Capt. Washington RN 

There is no doubt that Lord Rolle’s Embankment caused a reduction of trade, including the limekiln business and its account books reflect this.  This and the failure of his Bank led Mr Yeates to leave his partnership with Lord Rolle in 1813.  It is difficult to understand why His Lordship did not anticipate this would happen when making the decision to build it.  A letter written by him in 1811 comments “…I wish I had never been plagued about the Embankment”.  However it is probable that trade in lime from the kilns picked up in the 1820’s culminating in a new Lease being granted in 1834. 

John Gore, Lime Burner is named at the kiln in 1812/13, receiving £1 for each burn (twice per week) and limestone is being delivered by the new boat.  In July the old boat is being repaired and later is shipping four loads of stone to Bankly Wharf.  The new boat, which had been built by Robert Davy for £1033 15s 1d, took five loads to the kilns later in the year.  Were these loads dropped into the sea and taken off the beach at low tide at this time? 

In 1813 John D. Kay, merchant of Budleigh Salterton is operating the limekiln and Masons are paid £3 17s 0d for work on the kilns.  He is soon in trouble getting supplies of culm in that winter.  Christopher Bartlett of Brixham is writing “it’s impossible any vessel can come to your place with 155 qtrs. culm at this season” ”considered very hazardous even in summer”.  In that year Thomas Petherbridge had shipped in culm during June and in August the “Netley” had delivered Culm from the Neath Quarries.  Kay was having two culm lighters repaired in September by Robert Conant.  Was Kay, a merchant, buying culm/coal for sale locally and also for the kilns? 

By 1816 he is writing to John Daw, the Estate Steward, from Hackney where he appears to be incapacitated and is giving up the tenancy.  Stoneboats were up for auction on 3rd May 1817.  Were they Kay’s?  

In April 1823 the stoneboat ”Two Brothers” delivered twenty-six blocks containing thirty-three tons “being a small lot selected with the greatest attention and care” “shipped as large blocks as the vessels hatchways would possibly take”.  These were limestone blocks and ordered by Mr. Shaw (probably Daw) for Lord Rolle.  It is known that the limekilns were continuing to be worked by tenants following John Kay’s departure, although no records have been seen recording their names. 

After the Great Storm of November 28th 1824, which did considerable damage on the beach and in Salterton, we are told by Samuel Coldridge, the Estate Steward, in his report to the Admiralty of 1851, that Mr. Green was asked to draw up a plan for laying a tunnel, later known as the Trunk, under the lime kilns, also building embankments from the kilns to Granary and along the west side of the Runney.  We believe only the Trunk was built. 

In September 1834 a 99 year Lease (No. 407) was granted to Thomas Walters, lime burner:  

“ALL those two limekilns, and bed or plot of ground adjoining for a coal yard or yard for any other merchandise, and shall burn 100 hogshead or more of good lime yearly. In default the premises will be forfeited to Lord Rolle. Rent £2.5/-pa.” 

Plan incorporated in 1834 lease showing the two kilns 

There are no entries in the Conventionary Rentals of any tenants of the limekilns until Walters lease of 1834.  It is possible the earlier tenants were holding short term leases (Rack Rentals).  The 1841 Census names William Middleton, limeburner, living in the Granary Lane Cottages.  

In 1868/9 a Court Case in the Exchequer of Pleas : City of Exeter v. William Lawrence, Merchant of Budleigh Salterton states:-  

“By the seaside within the Manor of Budleigh Syon are certain Limekilns.  Before the year 1834 they had been held and worked by persons, tenants of Lord Rolles.  In 1834 a Lease was granted to Thomas Walters on 3 lives for 99 years. The lease is still subsisting, Walters established a stone and coal trade, importing Stone. Coal and Culm. In 1857 William Lawrence took an underlease from Walters etc.etc.” 

An entry in Pigot’s Directory of 1844 under Budleigh Salterton lists “Walters & Wishart, Point, (Exmouth) Boat Builders”.  By 1866 Thomas Walters is living in No 12, Victoria Place as a wealthy merchant.  

The 1842 Tithe Award lists the Limekiln thus:- 

Lessee and occupier; Thomas Walters  

497 Limekiln Field, arable,  1 acre, Tithe 11d. and 3/8d

498 Lime Kiln & Waste  1 rood 30pole

500 Coal Yard & Garden  20pole Tithe 1/-  Total 1a. 2r 10p  

The Court Statement continues with a description of the “seaside” :- The Cliff where the Limekilns are situated is about 15ft. high from the Beach, The base of the Cliff is 30 yards from High Water Mark.  At High Spring Tides water comes up to the Cliffs.  Mr. Lawrence has a tramway for conveyance of goods to the Limekilns – 63 yards long and used from May to September annually.  Stone is discharged into the sea between High & Low Water.

Tithe Map showing Lime Kiln Leases 

William Lawrence had “a further lease in 1863 which still subsists” (in 1868).  In 1858 he “the Defendant” had imported coal and stone for which lessees of the plaintiffs claimed customs due – coal £5 14s 1d; stones £10 8s 4d.  He appealed and eventually paid the debt . In 1859 he refused to pay for further imports.  Hence the court case.  Verdict not known.  

The end of production 

It is possible the limekiln was still in use in 1878.  White’s Directory of 1878 lists John Born, farmer and Lime & Coal Merchant.  We believe that at that time Born was tenant to Thomas Walters at the kiln and took over a new lease in 1885 of “Lime Kilns cottages and ground” on a yearly tenancy at rent £80 10s 0d.  In February 1886 he is supplying the Hon. Mark Rolle at Bicton House with coal.  Mr. Rolle had since bought a supply from a railway truck at Tipton for 19s 0d and “was well pleased with it”. He wished to still receive a delivery from Mr. Born for a more competitive price. Robert Lipscomb Estate Steward writes to Mr.Born: 

“I quite see the disadvantage which you are at if you buy at retail prices at Exmouth and have to cart the coal 7 miles to Bicton in all weathers but I am well aware that the best North Country Coal can be landed at B. Salterton for 20/-.”  

By the 1878 Directory William Lawrence is farming Tidwell Barton.  It is not known when the kilns fell into disuse, while the site was still in active use for trade.  The 1870’s and 80’s was a period of acute agricultural depression in Britain.  Prices of farming products fell rapidly due to the vast economic changes taking place internationally.  These products were being imported cheaply into Europe from North and South America and Britain refused to put up tariff barriers.   

During the previous seventy-five years Britain had grown three-quarters of the corn she needed and until 1846 the Corn Laws protected the price the farmer got for his crops.  The large tenant farmer raised his standard of living considerably during this time.  This brought prosperity to artisans, tradesmen and labourers alike and is reflected in population figures – quite apart from the boom in development of Budleigh Salterton and Exmouth.  The population of Otterton rose from 966 in 1811 to 1243 in 1841.  A steady decline took place from the 1870’s on.  The first depression in Britain lasted from 1875 to 1884 and brought a reduction in arable and increase of pasture for cattle and sheep.  This would have seriously affected the demand of lime from the farming community, probably causing the closure of the kilns.    

By November 1895 Mr. Kingdon, Rolle Estates Works Manager is writing to Mr. Chamier, Estate Steward, that the sea has washed away the brick shaft from under the limekiln.  Today there is little visible sign of the brick remains and a Second World War pillbox has been built above the site.

Tony Carpenter writes - In the 1920’s & 30’s the limekiln “stood at its original height of 18 to 20 feet above ground, approximately square in shape with outside vertical walls that had projecting oak beams near the top all around the perimeter……to hold a timber staging for the men whilst shoveling in the limestone and coal etc. at the top.  Inside was a Gothic arched roof subway around the central core shaped like a large funnel with grates at the bottom where they would empty out the burnt lime etc. Eventually the Town Council lowered the height of the kiln and constructed a road on the other side of the wall, filing in the gallery space underneath”.  

As the Shell Country Alphabet puts it … 

“Above many lonely beaches a limekiln and a concrete pillbox of the Second World War decay side by side”. 

Researched and written by Gerald Millington © 2012

 

Chronology: 

Mid 17th. century   A Limekiln probably existed 

1721John Thomas is named in Quarter Sessions. He held the

limekiln in the 18th. century.  

1741His son is named in Quarter Sessions

1762 Thomas Weekes holds part of the limekiln

Rolle Estates have taken the 1000 yr. Lease of Limekiln

1786Lease merged into the old Duke Estates, now under Rolles

1790George Baron holding 1000 yr, Lease of Limekiln

1801Rolle Estates take over management of Limekiln

1805Matthew Lee Yates taken into partnership with Estate

1813Yates withdrew from partnership.

1813John D. Kay, operating limekiln.

1816Kay gives up tenancy. Believed limekiln continued operating

1834Thomas Walters granted 99 year lease on Kiln.

1857William Lawrence took underlease 

1863Lawrence took further lease

1875Believed limekiln closed. Coal yard continued trading

1885Site leased to John Born, merchant. Annual tenancy

1895Brick shaft of limekiln washed away. 

Sources: 

Clinton Devon Estates Archives (includes Tithe Award & Maps, Surveys. Rolle Rental Books, Estate Letter Books) 

Devon Record Office (includes Land Tax Returns, Church Vestry Records, 96/M Rolle of St. Giles) 

West Country Studies Library, Exeter. 

Fairlynch Museum File on Salterton Limekilns (which includes “The preparation and use of lime in the Lower Otter Valley” by Neville R Williams 2001 and “Growing up in the Granary Area” by Tony Carpenter) 

Exeter Flying Post – West Country Studies Library, Exeter. 

Exmouth Journal: “Ancient Limekiln at Budleigh Salterton” by G.E.L.Carter

Local Directories (White’s, Pigot’s, Kelly’s etc.) 

“Fairlynch” by Gawne & Pepperdine – Fairlynch Museum, Bud. Salterton 

Historical Guide to Lower Otter Valley – Brennan – OVA Publications 1984 

“Limekilns” Shell Country Alphabet – Grigson 1965 

“Lime as a means of Agricultural Improvement” by Chalklin & Havinden from Rural Changes & Urban Growth 1974 

The Local Historians Encyclopedia – John Richardson – Historical Pubs. 1974     

Smuggler, John Rattenbury 1778/1844 E, Hathaway, Shinglepicker Press 1994 

Memoirs of a Smuggler by J. Rattenbury. J. Harvey, Sidmouth 1837 

Exmouth Milestones - E.R.Delderfield – Raleigh Press 1948

 

 

BS-G-00016 150  C17, C18, Industry, Lime Kiln, any