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Until the late 15th. Century, the Otter Estuary was completely open to the sea, with a wide entrance channel. It was navigable for vessels of 100 tons or more, to berth at various moorings on either bank to well beyond Otterton, probably to Newton Poppleford / Harpford. In the late fourteen hundreds the river mouth gradually silted up and by the 1530’s passage for larger boats became prohibitive, seriously affecting the lucrative maritime trade which existed. 

How could this have happened in such a short time? The continual climate changes that have taken place over many centuries is probably the answer. 

Pre-History 

As the last ice-age receded Britain’s land connection with Ireland broke, followed by its separation from the continent. Rising sea levels were the cause, due to global warming. This took about 10,000 years - to 7,000BC, with sea levels continuing to rise since then by over 30 metres. The force of the sea kept all estuaries wide open and there was minimal silting from rivers, which were fast flowing. As the ‘Maritime History of Devon’ puts it “Rising sea levels drowned the lower river valleys which were reshaped by tidal flows”. From 7,000BC temperatures rose to even higher levels than they are today; there was then a cooling into Roman Times and a shift to colder, wetter conditions similar to today. 

“River gradients and velocities decreased, silting took place, which combined with longshore drift of foreshore material, formed spits and bars partly blocking entrances to most rivers in South Devon”, particularly in Lyme Bay. Axe, Beer, Branscombe, Sid, Otter, Exe, Teign, were all affected to a greater or lesser degree. This took place over a period of 1,500 years, when evidence of shipping movements in the Otter Estuary decline significantly. 

Pre Roman Age 

Before the Roman Period (43 – 410AD) vessels used informal landing places – beaching, anchoring off, or mooring to a pole or stone. The ‘Book of Budleigh Salterton’ chapter 2 says “probably from about the late Neolithic Period of 3,000BC onwards, Budleigh Salterton was evidently thought to have been a good landing place for boats”. This must have applied to the whole Lower Otter Valley. Neolithic Man found the whole area attractive as is evident from many thousands of artefacts they have left. Throughout the Manors that border the river, from the Estuary to many miles upstream, both in the valley and on the high ground to the east and west of the river it is still possible to find their flint implements lying in the fields. 

“The base camp for these people was the ancient camp at High Peak” where there was considerable evidence of their occupation.  “Woodbury Castle”, on the opposite side of the valley and within sight of “High Peak”, was probably the principal centre for the area. The flint they used was transported from the Axe Estuary. High Peak was occupied over the next 3,000 years. Bronze and Iron Age people lived here and many pottery fragments from their times had come from other parts of the country and even from the continent. This indicates trading which must have come by sea in primitive boats into the Estuary. 

The High Peak camp was probably constructed as a hill-fort and lookout as protection for boats in the Estuary. The Peak would have been situated some distance inland during these times and considerable erosion of the cliffs has taken place since. Today only half of the earthworks remain, covered in trees. The primitive boats used may have been the sea going sailing curragh, of 40 to 50 feet long with a lug sail popular with Irish traders, especially later in Roman times.    

Roman Britain and after 

The Roman occupation would have seen an increase in maritime activity in the Otter Estuary. The Devon Maritime History suggests that “there is a possibility that Axmouth and Sidmouth were used” during this period which must also have applied to the Otter. A Roman farmstead/villa was discovered at Otterhead in 1988 probably built in the late 2nd. Century (175-225AD). Today the site is close to the sea, but in Roman times was probably a considerable distance from it, with the mouth of the Estuary much further to the south. It could have been at the head of a haven into the estuary. 

Finds made at the site tell us that trading was carried out by sea to ports along the south coast and the continent. Further finds of coins and samian ware pottery at Otterton and Budleigh Salterton help to substantiate this. The farmstead may have been part of a small settlement here. Another Romano-British settlement further north was at Pinn at this time. Some of the pottery finds at the site were of French and Mediterranean origin. For the next 200 or so years until the Saxons moved into the South West, trade would have continued throughout, continually harassed by pirates raiding coastal sites. 

Saxon England 

The Saxons arrived in the Otter Valley by sea in the late 680’s and set up communities where rivers/streams flowed into the River Otter. All would have been provided with deep-water at high tides. Otterton in particular would have been suitable, lying in a deep valley sheltered from the elements, and far enough up river to have some protection from marauding pirates. The stream which today runs through Otterton, in Saxon times carried a greater volume of water and being tidal widened out creating a deep water harbour on the site of the Green. The Saxons, who were Christians, built a settlement around this haven and a primitive church on the high ground above. 

Over the next 350 years Otterton became the principal settlement in the Lower Otter Valley. (East) Budleigh also developed in a similar fashion with its stream flowing off the Common and widening creating a deep water harbour where Lower Budleigh is today probably from the site of Drakes School into the Estuary beyond Thornmill. Colaton Raleigh and Dotton also developed in this way. Grimes Ford above Otterton, probably had a small settlement and there were probably other sites on both sides of the Estuary which were similar. Grimes Ford was on the ancient trackway east to west at its river crossing, probably marking the limit of high tides. 

“The energy of these Saxons, coupled with the richness and diversity of resources within the Parishes, resulted in considerable growth. Between 700 and 1,000AD Otterton (and the other settlements) went from almost nothing to being one of the major rural communities in Devon”. The communications by sea provided excellent opportunities for trading from all the small ports in the Estuary. The merchants grew rich and prosperous. It is no surprise that by the 11th. Century the King and his most powerful Lord, Godwin and his family held the principal Manors. King Edward the Confessor held Budleigh, Lady Gytha, Earl Godwins wife, held Otterton and in the adjacent Sid Valley the Earl held Sidbury. 

This is the first of four related article. Click forward to jump to the next.

Compiled and researched © Gerald Millington, 2009 

References: 

The New Maritime History of Devon, Vols. 1 and 2   (Conway Maritime 1992) 

The Book of Budleigh Salterton by D. Richard Cann (Halsgrove 2005) 

All About Otterton by Gerald Millington & Robert Jones   (Keverel  Books )2000

Devon by Prof. W.G.Hoskins    (David & Charles 1954)

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