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To
mark the new millennium, the Otter Valley Association decided to
make a photographic record of the Mark Rolle buildings within its
area, the heart of the Rolle estate in South Devon. The project
then expanded to include an exhibition of selected photographs
in the summer of 2002, and an illustrated book, “Mark
Rolle: His Architectural Legacy in the Lower Otter Valley”.
The Association has been able to carry out this programme with
the help of a Local Heritage Initiative Grant. The Local Heritage
Initiative was developed by the Countryside Agency, and funded
by the Heritage Lottery Fund and the Nationwide Building Society.
The Association is most grateful to these sponsors.
The Estate which Mark Trefusis inherited in 1842, as tenant-for-life,
from his aunt’s husband John, Baron Rolle, was a rich inheritance.
It ran to nearly 55,600 acres, part in North Devon and part in
the South of the county. As a condition of the inheritance, the
young Mark was required to change his surname to Rolle (which he
duly did in 1852), and live part of each year in the family mansions
at Stevenstone in the North, and Bicton in the South. These residence
conditions were relaxed by The Rolle Estate Act of 1865, whose
main purpose was however to give him a freer hand in managing the
Estate.
In the same year, he appointed Robert Hartley Lipscomb
as Steward of the Estate. This was a shrewd move, for Lipscomb was
able, intelligent
and industrious. The appointment brought a change in the pace of
improvements. The late 1860s, 1870s and 1880s were a period of intense
building activity on the Estate. To carry out this programme, the
Estate had its own substantial labour force, and means of producing
many of the necessary building materials. Lipscomb wrote close to
50,000 letters during this period. Copies of almost all of these
are still preserved in the Rolle Estate Archives. Much of the book
is based on this fascinating contemporary record of the methods used
and the personalities involved. When Lipscomb retired in 1892, virtually
all the farms had been modernised, and many new cottages built. The
work continued, albeit at a slower pace, until Mark Rolle’s
death in 1907. This was the period of Victorian High Farming. Everywhere,
owners of broad acres were busy improving their estates. Not
that this was a particularly profitable investment. Considerable
capital had to be raised, often by borrowing. Rental income was
hardly commensurate with the outlay, especially when agriculture
fell into decline from about 1875 onwards. Tenant farmers struggled,
often unsuccessfully, to pay the rent.
It was, however, for many landowners, “the thing to do”,
motivated partly from a genuine desire to improve the livelihood
of the tenant farmers and labourers on their estates, and also
from a desire to hand on an improved inheritance to the next generation.
The surviving Mark Rolle buildings can be identified from certain
characteristic architectural features. Once alerted to these, anyone
exploring the Lower Otter Valley soon begins to recognize them
as one recognizes an old friend. Although the farm buildings show
only subtle differences from those that preceded them, the cottages
have a delightful exuberance of variety and elaboration.
The most noticeable feature is the incorporation of a stone, prominently
displayed in the gables of many of the buildings, bearing the bold
initials MR and the date. Apart from this “signature” stone,
the best evidence for Mark Rolle identification is the presence
of distinctive corbels at the gables. The book lists 87 buildings
built, added to or altered during this time.
Mark Rolle left an architectural legacy that merits our admiration
and protection. Indeed, the legacy might well serve as an example
to us. The use of local materials, the inventiveness, the variety
and the element of fun, which stops short of whimsicality; these
are qualities well worth striving to emulate in the buildings of
today.
Copies of “Mark Rolle: His Architectural
Legacy in the Lower Otter Valley” are available from local bookshops at £4.95
or by mail order.
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